A spare closet that isn’t living its best life is a good idea. However, you might not be getting the best out of it. With these DIY floating corner pantry shelves, you can make it into a functional pantry. Who says that a pantry can’t be beautiful? It definitely can if you know how to build and organize a pantry corner shelf. That is why I have partnered with some of the best pantry designers to show you how to build corner shelves for pantry-free.
It’s easy to make floating pantry shelves at home. It had the same kind of wire shelving that you’ll find in most closets—durable but not always the most stylish or beautiful. So after taking down an old shelving system, we decided to get rid of everything and start over from scratch again. We started by filling in the holes and painting the door with wallpaper for the wall behind it.
When building your corner shelve pantry, you can choose how you want it to be, but for this post, wraparound shelving will be our main focus for floating corner pantry shelves. The idea was to add deeper shelves for the lower part.
What materials do you need for corner shelves for pantry?
It takes 2 x 2 lumber for shelves to make floating corner pantry shelves.
|For top of the shelf – ¾” plywood
|For the bottom of the shelf – ¼” plywood
|For shelf face – 1 x 3 pine
|Kreg Jig and Screws
|Drill and Impact driver
|Saw table stand
|Nail gun kit
|Nail set tool
|Liquid nails adhesive
|Clamps for wood
|Wood filler caulk
Think about how you’ll use your space; the space in the closet we use is 47 inches wide, 22 inches deep, and 6′′ of space on each side of the door.
Then we cut a piece of construction paper to the same size as corner floating shelves, 2.5′′ to be precise, and then work around the space between. Our two lower shelves are 12.25′′ deep, but they don’t go all the way around to the sides. Instead, they are 8 inches deep in the back and 6/6.5 inches deep on the sides.
How to build corner shelves for pantry
Drill support cleats
The closet space was so vast, we needed strong supports to hold anything that weighed a lot, so we designed or drilled a support cleat. Unfortunately, the basic cleats we used were insufficient, so we used the 2 x 2 scrap to make the support frameworks.
We first marked the studs on the wall, then put a 2 x 2 cleat on the back and sides of each shelf. Even though walls, corners, and closets aren’t always level, make sure you check for level a lot during this process.
It took us longer to build the shelving because we used more 2 x 2’s to frame and then filled it in with shorter cross braces. To screw in all of the framework pieces, we used 3″ screws. Then we glued and screwed them together with the Kreg Jig Pocket Joint and wood glue.
Cut and fit the shelves.
We used a circular saw and this Kreg Rip-Cut attachment to cut 3/8-inch plywood for the tops and 1/8-inch plywood for the bottom of the boxes. The Rip-cut attachment makes it easier if you’re cutting the same thing at the same time.
We then did a quick dry fit to make sure everything fit together as well as possible. And, of course, we also made sure to check the weight limit. Finally, we cut three pieces out of wood, both for each side and the back. Then we used wood filler to make it look clean.
After this, we used a primer coat and a paint coat on the shelves. We did this before putting them in. If the appearance is not pleasing, you can add more coating.
Time to link the shelves.
We attached the 3/8-inch plywood pieces to the tops by using a nail gun and some glue. This is when those clamps come in handy, just like having a second set of hands to keep everything aligned and flush.
To ensure your nail gun can still get in between shelves or build them in by levels:
- Think about how you’ll space them out.
- Take all of these into account when you plan.
- Use adhesive and clamps for the bottom 1/4′′ plywood pieces until you can nail them into place.
For the final stage, put the top and bottom pieces in place. Then, you can use a piece of pine about 1 by 3 inches long (2.5″ wide) to cover the front.
This is how the corner shelf worked out:
0.75″ plywood top shelf
1.5″ 2x wood cleat
0.25″ plywood bottom
We nailed the 1 x 3 pine boards right to the front to wrap everything up.
Remember, not all walls are even, including corners or closets; you may have to do some filling at the end. Use a nail set to tap down nails sticking out, then use wood filler caulk and cover or fill in any gaps between the floating shelves and the walls. Wait till it’s dry, then sand it down and apply your finish.
Once everything is done, use some white enamel trim paint to finish it off. Allow drying before putting anything on the shelves. Now you have DIY wallpaper and DIY floating corner pantry shelves.
How do you support shelves in a corner?
How do you support shelves that are tucked into a corner? First, you should secure corner shelving to the support brackets by marking below the side of the supports onto the shelf while the shelf is in place. Then, to accommodate a tiny screw, drill a hole in the middle of the shelf, midway between the markings and the edge of the shelf. Finally, if required, countersink the top of the shelf.
What are the angles for a corner shelf?
What are the angles for a corner shelf, and how do you make one? You could simply construct a corner shelf with the back at a perfect 90-degree angle in an ideal world. However, in many instances, the corners are not square. As a result, if you construct the shelf in this manner, there will be gaps at either end where the shelf’s sides do not rest flat against one another.
How do you make a 45-degree angle without a protractor or compass?
Angle building may be accomplished without using a protractor by only utilizing a compass and a ruler.
Follow the actions outlined below to find out:
Using a ruler and a compass, it is possible to build an angle. First, however, it is necessary to follow a few easy procedures to make an angle of 45 degrees.
- As we all know, half of a 90-degree angle equals 45º.
- Draw a line segment BC with whatever length you choose.
- Construct a semi-circle bisecting BC at point P, starting with B as the center.
- Starting with P, draw three arcs splitting the semi-circle into three equal pieces, each at a 60-degree angle.
- Draw a line across the semi-circle at the locations x and y where the arcs intersect.
- Construct arcs from points x and y that bisect at point Z, starting from the origin.
- Connect points A and Z to form a 90-degree angle that bisects the semi-circle at point T, completing the triangle.
- Construct arcs from points P and T that intersect at point A and bisect each other.
- Join AB together, and the angle generated by the joining is the needed angle.